Thursday, January 21, 2016

Guidxi Binnizá – the tobacco hill

Another quick half-day trip was to Ixtepec – "facing the hill" in Nahuatl –, called Danigueza (tobacco hill) in Zapotec. We were aiming to visit a gallery opened by some Chicagoan living there, but unfortunately he was not around. Still, Oaxaca being Oaxaca, it's hard to visit a place and not notice something interesting, eh?

Like this brick chimney with cacti growing from its top...

Or the "La Bestia" railroad. La Bestia (the Beast) is a train network running from the south of Mexico to the north, and is used by about half a million migrants trying to get to the US. With thousands (yes, thousands) of them being kidnapped, abused and mistreated in a myriad ways every year. It was strange standing there, knowing that at some point hopeful hundreds would pass by, mounted on top of the Beast, with many heading to a dark fate. It was moving. It was unsettling.

Then this behemoth (for a town this size) Art Déco phantom station (completely empty, no clue as to its past or future function).

And before we left, an old man walking his horse down the street, scolding it out loud and carrying out a whole monologue-conversation. Not your everyday scene. Or are Ixtepec horses particularly good listeners?

A curious place, the tobacco hill...

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