Wednesday, January 29, 2014

gelid, welcoming, colourful New Scotland - IV


Lunenburg was super pretty.  As simple as that.  We spent two nights there, and we got to see the town in its snowy stormy glory (the day we arrived) and in its super frigid but sunny charm (the second and third days).  And it was all for ourselves and ourselves alone - since it was winter, and a particularly harsh stretch at that, there was nary a tourist in sight.  


The place we stayed at was amazing: the Boscawen Inn.  Granted, it was a bit cold, but we were experiencing unusually cold weather with temperatures some 10 ºC below the usual minimum, so it was no surprise they couldn't cope.  But the hosts were great, and they phoned everybody they knew to find if anything was opening the day we arrived (the storm and low tourist season meant most everything was closed). The building was a beautiful heritage house, with inviting rooms for just relaxing with a cup of coffee or tea and a candy; and we had a nice, spacious room on the top floor, with a turret, great views of the bay, and delicious sunshine in the morning.   Frankly, quite the find!


We spent those days simply wandering around.  Though the town's site was inhabited originally by Acadians and the native Mi'kmaq, the town took its present shape with a massive, almost 3000 strong, protestant immigration from Germany, Switzerland and France in the mid 18th century.  And they've managed to maintain their colourful heritage look since, earning them a place in the UNESCO list of heritage sites.  A very well deserved honour, I say.

Not surprisingly, it's not only brightly coloured old houses that survived (man, do I love those bright colours in these northern latitudes!), but numerous churches which couldn't but add to the picturesque quality of the town.  That and the snow.


And, simply put, Lunenburg ended up being gorgeous within, and gorgeous from afar.  We crossed the bay to get views of the town.  We actually went twice, once during the day, with the sun shining bright above, and once at sunset.  Please, don't make me say gorgeous again!  But honestly, not that many towns can boast of being beautiful to look at from all angles!

At sunset, the gelid waters, the pinkish skies, the colourful town and the quiet of that side of the bay were the perfect setting for another improvised Butoh performance by my husband (yes, we do carry around props and gear should any one place inspire him).


Ah!  I had almost forgotten!  We also saw the Bluenose II!  If you've ever seen a 10 cent Canadian coin, you'll see there's a schooner on it.  That one was the Bluenose, a famous racing and fishing ship from Nova Scotia and launched in Lunenburg in 1921.  It sank in 1946, near Haiti.  In 1963 a replica was built, Bluenose II, an "ambassador" for the province.  It would have been cooler to see it in full sail.  But still, it was nice to see yet another item from Canada's currency in real life! (our first was Moraine Lake, which appears in some 20 dollar bills)

I assure you I did my best effort not to post too many pictures, but this was such a nice place!  And despair not, I'm almost done with my posts about this trip.  Just two more - Mahone Bay, and our drive in the Aspotogan Peninsula, ok?

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