Wednesday, January 15, 2014

gelid, welcoming, colourful New Scotland - II


Our second stop in our Nova Scotia trip was Peggys Cove.  Like I said before, you might not recognize the name, but you might recognize the most famous tourist attraction of the area: the Peggys Point Lighthouse.

Like Halifax, it was incredibly cold.  But, like Halifax, the skies were fine and it wasn't snowing.  Since there was a blizzard coming the next day, we made the most of our first day there.  And since we arrived too early for check in at our Bed & Breakfast, we were exploring the place right away!

First:  St. John's Anglican Church, on (where else?) Church Rd.  This is where I started getting a strange feeling of remoteness and isolation.  True, we were but an hour away from Halifax, but the ridiculously cold weather, the wind, the rugged terrain, the winter skies, the Atlantic Ocean, the nice but small church, the lack of people... All this made this place feel way stranger than I expected (and probably than at any other time of the year).  The odd house perched on a hill just added to the peculiarness of it all...

We were actually walking to the lighthouse, but the cold was so brutal it had drained the battery of my husband's camera really fast, so we headed back to the B&B to get a new battery and to get the car.  And we then headed straight to the lighthouse.  Now, Nova Scotians won't like this, but I think I prefer the lighthouses I saw in Newfoundland.  This one was fine, for sure.  It looks pretty, all painted white with the red top.  And if you look around you'll find a nice spot for a photo with the rocks around and the Atlantic Ocean.  It IS a nice place.  It really is.  It just wasn't breathtaking.  But pretty nevertheless.

Nearby was the only place we knew of to have a meal, the Sou' Wester.  And to combat the cold I had a delicious hot apple cider!  Heavenly!  The sort of thing you simply want to hold in your hands to warm them up.   Followed by a vegan burger for me (amazing how such a remote place has vegan burgers! go Canada!) and fish 'n chips for the huz (what else should one have by the Atlantic Ocean but haddock fish 'n chips, eh?).  All the while with views of the lighthouse from the restaurant's windows (and how nice it was to see it while staying warm!).

Now, I might have said that I wasn't too impressed with the lighthouse.  But I fell completely in love with the wharf!  It was so... rough, colourful, deserted... There were round slabs of ice scattered around, left by the previous high tide.  I thought it was absolutely beautiful.  In fact, this was the highlight of this part of the trip!

Back at the B&B, it was finally time for the check in.  This was the only Bed & Breakfast there, aptly called Peggys Cove Bed & Breakfast, LOL.  We got a room in the second floor.  Now, the room had a private bathroom, but it wasn't IN the room, but across the hallway.  In exchange for that really minor inconvenience, it had the best view of all:  from the windows and the balcony you could see absolutely everything! the cove, the lighthouse, the wharf...  That was my second favourite part.  Really, this cove is something special.  So calm.  So unmodern.  So exposed to the elements...

That night, as the forecast had predicted, the snow storm started, and snow started accumulating like crazy outside.  We bundled up and stayed in bed, reading, watching some TV, and wondering if we'd be able to drive next day, as whiteout conditions (ie, near zero visibility due to the blizzard) were part of the forecast...

The good thing was that, next morning, the views from our room were pretty stunning.   It kept snowing, and now the cove looked completely different!

Waiting for us downstairs was a hearty, warm breakfast of fruit, juice, pancakes and coffee.  With more views of the (now super snowy) cove!

In the end, we decided we'd give it a shot and drive to Lunenburg, our next stop.  It was just a 100km away via the highway, or 133km via the scenic route.  We decided that we'd drive a while and, if the weather was too bad, we'd turn back and stay another night at the cove.  We hopped on the car.  And we drove away...

Next post:  Our "fun" drive, and Lunenburg, one of the prettiest towns in Canada!

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