Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Day of the Dead, part II

November 2nd, or All Hallows' Day, we kept enjoying the Day of the Dead celebrations of this city. We had seen some pictures of a beautiful ofrenda (see my previous post for some definitions) in the Santa María la Ribera neighbourhood, so we headed there. But, before reaching the metrobús station, there was this going on by the Alameda Central! A pop-up town with Day of the Dead crafts, a band, and a group of dancing skeletons and a Catrina? This couldn't get any better!

From there, we headed to the Kiosco Morisco in the Santa María la Ribera neighbourhood (read more on that beautiful kiosk and the neighbourhood here). Well, the photos we had seen didn't lie – it was amazing and so elaborate! There was a path of ofrendas and cempasúchil flowers leading all the way to the kiosk. There, you were greeted by a tzompantli (of Aztec origin, a wall of skulls signalling the entrance to the underworld, the Mictlán). And once inside, many more ofrendas and an incredible mix of Christian and pre-Hispanic imagery and motifs. Stunning.

Finally, we had to go back to the Zócalo, because I was dying to see it at night! And it was totally worth it. There was a stage with different groups playing music, and the papel picado was interspersed with small candle-like lamps. The same ofrendas we had seen were now lit, and looked so much more special...

But then there was some stuff that wasn't there the day before, like a big glittery multi-coloured skull, a devil skeleton, and a few monumental skeletons in blue, yellow and red. Wow.

We decided to go back via the smaller streets leading away from the Zócalo and, when turning around the cathedral, we came across this small ofrenda by one of the cathedral's walls. So simple – just two veladoras (votive candles), a bowl with a clementine, cempasúchil flowers, right under a niche with a Purgatory-like sculpture. Like, just by walking around the area, you know? This part of town is simply magical.

And that was it. This time I forgot to take photos of all the pan de muerto (you can read more on this kind of bread typical to Día de Muertos on this other post of mine), though. But this must have been one of the more interesting Día de Muertos that I've experienced in the city. Pretty awesome.